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RE: Cummins C8.3L Lubricating Oil Cooler
Most of the Early Cummins 8.3L shut off valves next to the coolant filters where made out of plastic and about 95% of the plactic ones I have seen where broken.
You can purchase a new stainless steel valve from Cummins. I believe it also comes with a couple "O" rings BUT you might have to remove the housing the shut-off valve is in & take it to a machine shop to remove. Those suckers get stuck real good!
Yes, I had the problem of a broken coolant filter valve, and yes they are OEM as a hard plastic material. What a farse!! I don't know whether the plastic one is available anymore or not, but be sure to specify the stainless version and two new O-rings.
I ended up pulling the housing off because I was concerned about getting small broken pieces into the system. I drilled a small hole in the top broken end of the valve, put in a dent puller, you know the one with the slide hammer on a rod and a screw in the end. A couple of raps and the old valve stem came out. While I was at it I changed the thermostats out as well. Might as well, because you have to go that far to get to the coolant valve anyway. I also noted a small leak at the weep hole in the water pump, so that got changed as well. All in all a good deal of maintenance taken care of in one tear down.
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jtfcons
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08/29/08 05:19pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Cummins C8.3L Lubricating Oil Cooler
I have seen the same information in the Cummins book that came with the bus, but I do not recall seeing anything concerning a replacement filter element as part of the oil cooler. The only oil filter I am aware of is the normal oil filter mounted just forward of the cooler mentioned. I don't recall seeing any threads dealing with problems with the oil cooling unit, and I keep an eye out for issues dealing with this engine. Unless the gasket is leaking for some reason, IMO I would not worry about it.
I would look elsewhere for lack of cooling problem.
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jtfcons
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08/28/08 03:25pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Ice maker in refer
We really like to have ice along, but found that the quality of the ice/water was suspect because it sits for some time between trips. This typically is not an issue with the full timers or those that choose to drain everything between trips. Even if draining completely, I just didn't trust that the ice would be fresh the first thing out of the pipe....so, I installed a tee fitting in the ice maker line right next to the solenoid valve. A 1/4 inch plastic line a couple of feet long with a small brass valve completes the setup. Now when I get ready to go and add the water to the tank, I open up the little valve and let it run for 5 minutes or so which flushes out the supply line. Tuck the plastic line into the refer outside compartment after use. The first fill of ice gets thrown out, but after that the ice is guaranteed to be from the fresh water just added. Tastes just fine.
Incidently, this setup works great for winterizing too. I use low air pressure to blow all lines out and again, open up this small valve to ensure water is completely flushed from the line.
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jtfcons
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08/20/08 05:32pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Bad Thermostat and/or remote sensor?
I had a similar issue with the two units on my bus. I read in the booklet that came with them that the remote was supposed to be mounted in the room where the second unit is installed. Well, I found that mine was coiled up inside the housing of the unit. I removed it, tested the thermistor in a cup of ice water to see that it was functional. It was, but it still bothered me that it was inside the housing, not mounted in a wall location which would reflect the real air temperature better. I removed the remote thermistor and about 15 feet of coiled up wire completely from the circuit board inside the unit and have never had a problem since. Both units respond to the thermostat when the set point requires, and both turn off when set temperature is reached, usually not at the same instant, but within a short time of each other.
These are the low profile (penguin version) of the duo-therm heat pump units. I'm not sure whether these are 13.5 or 15K units. Maybe your thermostat is different, but on mine the fan speed can be manually selected as well as automatic. I typically keep it in manual and selected for high speed.
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jtfcons
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08/19/08 04:09pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Securing Regulator To Spigot
I've done the chain and lock bit, and so far no takers. Like you say, it is still possible to remove it but would take some time and work and that's good enough for me.
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jtfcons
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08/13/08 03:47pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Kitchen sink drain dilema (leaking)
"Caulk is an interesting idea. I've never seen it used on a drain like this. Think it will stick well to the stainless steel sink?"
Should be no problem, in fact be carefull not to use too much or clean it up well after pulling it tight. The squeeze out area in other words will need to be cleaned up well.
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jtfcons
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08/12/08 02:09pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Kitchen sink drain dilema (leaking)
I have not had the problem but if I did, I'd try a caulking in place of the plumbers putty laid in the flange joint between the sink drain and the sink hole. A silicone (kitchen & bath) caulk or a butyl caulk will remain flexible.
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jtfcons
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08/12/08 01:58pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Well Water in tank?
If worried about it at all, get a test kit at home depot or other box store. I've tested mine every three years just cause and found it to be very good water. Cost you about $10 for peace of mind.
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jtfcons
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08/09/08 06:30pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Cummins Engine
KW5B said "What is this cap for?????
It is the oil fill cap that you will most likely find is the best one to use. I say this because mine is the same layout and the oil fill cap that is on the top of the valve cover is useless as a means to fill. The clearance is about 4 inches above this cap and nothing short of powered pumping device will get oil in this access. The oil fill on the injector pump drive cover is the one to use. Even this is not the best, so shop for a funnel with an offset outlet, not in the center in other words. This works just fine.
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jtfcons
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08/07/08 07:55pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: cruise control problem
Since we have similar units, I will go out on a limb and disagree with some. My cruise works just fine with the exhaust brake (EB) on. I don't have a jake brake so maybe this is different circuit setup.
The switch that controls whether the EB is activated or not can be on all the time. The things that control whether the EB is activated are throttle fully closed, or stepping on the brake treadle which also means the throttle is fully closed. When the cruise is on and set and descending a grade that causes exceeding the set speed, the EB kicks in. When set speed is achieved because of EB braking the cruise picks up and controls again, in other words it never was not in control. The cruise can be turned off by selecting off for the cruise control switch or stepping on the brake.
As others have said, check the brake circuit. Either brake light bulbs out or a stuck brake light activation switch can cause cruise be deactivated.
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jtfcons
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08/05/08 05:42pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Monoco Diplomat plastic dash replacement
Check out Custom Instrument Panel in Carson, CA. Google it.
I used them to replace the center and shift pad console.
$125 vs over $600 from Monaco. Very good service, talk to Mack.
Their product is a plastic of various patterns, like the original. The key to getting better service frmo these products is to have straight thru drilled holes at the mounting positions rather than countersunk holes for flatheads. This is the weak area that breaks out at the edges. I used brass screws and washers and the look is very nice.
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jtfcons
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08/04/08 08:07pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Had the wheel alignment checked today
Thanks for the replies. I editted the post to reflect that I got the switch details wrong. Switch was made between the front two and left rear duals, not the right as stated originally.
Also Brett, the ride height was checked and to specs. Good comment.
FYI---Tires are TOYO 265-75R-22.5's
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jtfcons
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07/30/08 10:57am |
Class A Motorhomes
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Had the wheel alignment checked today
After the last couple of trips in the bus totaling about 4000 miles, I noticed that the right front tire was wearing at the outside edge more than the inside edge. The left front showed a small wear difference, barely noticeable. I made an appointment to have the alignment checked and what an eye opener. The front axle was nearly perfect for alignment but the rear axle was way off. In the first place, I did not realize that the alignment check would involve the rear axle. In the second place, the effect that the rear axle had on the front tire wear was very interesting. The technician explained to me how the rear mis-alignment caused the track of the bus to be off line by 20-30 feet for every mile traveled. That may not sound like much, but he said that this caused the driver to be correcting for the mis-alignment constantly. In an exaggerated way its like making a large diameter left hand turn, in other words placing constant pressure on the outside edge of the right front tire.
After the re-alignment, I drove the 40 miles or so home and up to highway speeds. What a difference, and I didn't think it was that bad in the first place!!
The tech does a lot of OTR rigs and said that often the factory sets the axle alignment up to specs but after a few miles and every thing has "settled in" the alignment can be off. He recommends on new equipment that you drive it 5000-6000 miles and then have the alignment reset. The cost of the alignment was $135.
Also, the tech recommended that the front tires be rotated or exchanged with rears. I went to Les Schwab and asked to have the fronts exchanged with the rears. All six tires, by the way, were purchased at the same time 4 years ago from LS. They recommended that the two right rear dual tires be exchanged with the two front tires, indicating that those rear tires see the least "road loading". This involved dismounting & remounting 4 tires plus new equal balancing bead packs. They did this for $0.00, since I purchased the tires there. What service!!!!
Anyway, I thought this information would be interesting to new coach owners and to others as well.
Opps, the exchange was made between the front two and the left rear duals, not the right ones as stated. Thanks for the catch.
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jtfcons
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07/29/08 08:59pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Cruise Control Help???
Also a quick check to see that brake light circuit is working properly. If brake switch is sticking making brake lights on when they should not be, then cruise will not work.
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jtfcons
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07/15/08 01:15pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Keeping the fresh water fresh
How do you keep the fresh water in your tank from going bad between trips.
Myself and many dump it after a trip.
Fill it up with fresh when you leave for a trip. I'd sure want to have a fresh tank of water from my home for the first run, certainly not some week old stale tank of water from the last CG I was at.:W
And actually there is no reason to have it filled and adding all that extra weight to your MH when you are on your way back home. I leave a little in for the occasional bathroom call on the way home but that's it.
X 2
same here
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jtfcons
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07/14/08 07:50pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Engine Overheat/ Radiator Cap Pressure
Just a hunch, but have you also had at any time when these events occur a hard steering or extra effort to steer.
My bus uses a hydraulic pump to power both steering and cooling fan (hydraulic motor). The hydraulics go thru a priority valve that determines where the greatest load is and splits or prioritizes the flow to that device. My pump went bad and cooling was affected.
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jtfcons
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07/10/08 09:41am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Coeur d' Alene, ID to West Glacier
i can understand why that route is more scenic but why is it better?
it looks like taking I90 to St. Regis and cutting over on 135 to 28 to 93, is a more direct route.
am i missing something here?
Yes, more direct, but two mountain passes to traverse on I90 (Fourth of July & Mullan Pass, MT/ID border. I find the Rt 95, Hwy 2 route less strenuous, more lakes, smaller more scenic rivers, no passes, just rolling hills.
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jtfcons
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07/07/08 04:12pm |
Roads and Routes
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RE: Easy Way to Improve Mileage
My expierence tells me your plan will fail.
I tried 55 mph but checking the tach told me that I was in 5th gear,
mileage sucks in fifth gear. Check it out.
I think he's on to something here. IMO, I would shoot for just under 60 to keep it in 6th gear and a more optimum torque range. We did a 3000 mile trip to Grand Canyon in May 08 and tried hard to keep under 60. Mileage was improved on a couple of the legs I checked. I had also installed a brake switch before trip. This is the modification that allows coasting if you choose while still having exhaust brake on when you need it by briefly pressing brake treadle. I enjoyed not having the 4th gear downshift happen when on a short inclines.
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jtfcons
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06/30/08 02:28pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: working with PEX tubing
Look, if I were you I would stay completely away from the crimp on fittings that require the special tools.
Flair-it fittings or the Shark-bite is the way to go. Fits existing gray colored piping as well as the clearish PEX piping. Use a pair of pliers to install and a cutter that is used for sprinkler piping (looks like a pair of pruners with a rachet jaw about $15). Every major hardware carries a wide array of fittings.
Every repair or change that I've done in RV has been with this set up and it could not be any easier and they are very reliable.
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jtfcons
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06/27/08 11:15am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Vin # ISL Cummins
Engine # ,not VIN is on a plate top of fuel injection pump drive housing right side of engine facing from the rear of bus. As stated, hard to see without use of mirror.
VIN for the chassis likely to be on a plate or sticker probably under dash, driver side area. Also has GVWR and all that stuff. Usually here because if you have ever seen pictures of a fresh built chassis for a pusher, the only part above the frame is the steering wheel and temporary or not dash.
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jtfcons
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06/24/08 02:55pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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